All cooking is an expression of love, but chocolate, more than most foods, confers the feeling of being loved. And for the last several years Remy has been researching the process by which chocolate is created from raw cacao beans. So when we arrived in Hawaii a few weeks ago, Remy was ready.
The tomatoes, corn, squash, beans and other typical harvest crops are piling up in the fields and farmers market tables, and even the plants that petered out during the heat of summer, like spinach, lettuce and radishes, are back. All in all, it’s a great time to be hungry.
I’ve been getting Chinese chives at the farmers market from a vendor named Nancy. She told me how to make a pancake, as she calls it, with egg, sesame oil and her scallion-sized chives. Chive pancakes usually have some glutenous form of starch like flour or pancake mix. But Nancy’s version, from “northern China,” has none. While technically more an omelet than pancake, when it comes to Chinese chives, I do what Nancy says.